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Peak Mountain 3

Diamonds in Rust

FA Rich Thompson, Dave Baker, Steve Grossman, 1976
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Jbak: My description from 1982 says "sustained and beautiful" but I was probably just excited to find actual crack moves on Mt. Lemmon.  I can't remember why it's done as 2 pitches, maybe because of a big ledge half way up.

From Sam: P1: Starts in an overhanging right-facing dihedral finger crack, then you get a short but nice offwidth section, then finish with some fist jams to top out on a big ledge.  Belay off tree.P2: finger crack starts about chest-height, then gradually widens to fists up to a rest ledge, then you have the option of going straight up to more offwidth or move right to hand/fist crack.  Nice big belay tree up top.  Walk off.You definitely want to to this as two short pitches; there are rope-snagging boulders at the top of the first pitch which would thwart linking them together.  Most sections require actual jamming and crack technique, though you can get away with liebacking a lot of it.  Granite is sharp and grainy, tape or gloves recommended.

Location

On the right side of the area.  An attractive crack start.

Protection

Sam: Cams up to Camelot #4, a #5 is nice  to have for the offwidth sections but optional, doubles if you want to sew it up.  Nut placements to be had in the finger crack sections.


Routes in Eagle Rock


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    Diamonds in Rust
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