- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a fun line if you enjoy thin/techincal movement. I've heard it called 12c, but I found the crux to have generally better holds and easier movement than any 12c you could find on the front side. (Doritos, Dakine Corner, Last Waltz, Full Heinous, Karate Wall, et al.) It's also basically a 10' boulder problem, so it's over quickly. I thought it was like an advanced version of Planet Mechanic.Start out climbing up some hollow flakes to the right of the bolt line and then step left to the hanging slab below the bulge. (stick clip recommended, but not required) Easy moves gain a horizontal crack after which the business starts. Do a somewhat powerful move over the lip followed by two closely spaced bolts of progressively thinning movement that culminate in a technical sequence on sidepulls and nubbins. After this point the route is over and you can surf up good holds to the chains.
Location
In between Up For Grabs/Planet Mechanic to the left and Majestic Pigeon to the right. Look for a bulge with a horizontal crack splitting the slab below it and a line of bolts through nice, red/orange rock above.
Protection
Bolts.
Routes in (d) Aggro Gully
- 6Kiss Fight5.12bSport