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Peak Mountain 3

DJW Memorial

FA Jim Knight
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Description

DJW Memorial

follows the ridge north of the main

Ed and Terry Wall

starting from just south of a small tower.

Climb past 3 bolts up the west face next to an arete and then traverse south on easy ground to a small, flat area. Start up the ridge arete again, placing medium gear as needed. Arrive at a steeper part of the arete and climb past one bolt, supplemented with gear as needed. Transition onto the west face and traverse past one bolt and the anchor of

I'm Not Lichen This

. Arrive at another steep arete and transition to the east face and climb past two more bolts. Top out on top of

Ed and Terry

and belay the second. Walk off to the south or rap from one of the

Ed and Terry

anchors.

The climbing is mellow with large positive holds and only a few moves on rock that approaches vertical. (The start is a bit scary because of loose and hollow sounding rock.) This route has somewhat of an alpine feel to it.

DJW Memorial

is named after David Webb, an early Rock Canyon climber who was tragically killed in an automobile accident.

Location

Approach as usual for the

Ed and Terry Wall

but instead of going to the base of the main wall head left past the foot of the triangular formation just to the north and west of the main wall (

The Pinkie

). Scramble to the belay location directly south of the small tower that appears detached to the north of

Ed and Terry

.

Protection

A small amount of medium gear and 8 bolts. I used a triple-length sling on a horn and the following Camalot C4s: .75, 2, 3, 4. Gear anchor at the top. You'll probably want to sling a couple of the bolts and all of the gear long to minimize rope drag.