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Peak Mountain 3

Corn Silk

FA Unknown
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Description

This well protected cruiser goes at about the same grade as NurdWand but it finishes at the large gully/plateau 2/3 of the way up the wall, giving you another option for doing both routes on the wall and where you want to finish for the day.

Pitch 1:

25m

  • Follow the bolt line straight up like a row of juicy kernels. Unlock a fun and well protected bulge 1/3 of the way up. After that the rest of the pitch is easy and enjoyable climbing. Place gear if you'd like but the bolts will lead you straight to a 2 bolt anchor at a comfy belay ledge.

Pitch 2:

35m

  • From the anchor clip the first and only bolt of the pitch, which is up and left about 10 feet. Follow the silky crack systems straight up to another bolted anchor.

Pitch 3:

35m

  • Crest the ledge and follow the seam 3 feet right and up from the belay anchor. From there, follow the cracks that are directly above your belayer. Many to thin cracks choose from that suck up gear so pick whatever looks fun and clean. Finish at the two bolt anchor is on some smooth, whitish granite that is on the edge of the middle plateau of Grouse Tor. Walk off, grinning (corn) ear to ear.

Location

This is the first route (far right) on the Grouse Tor wall. From the Grouse Ridge parking area, head toward the large pine tree and descend the gully staying towards the right side with the wall. At the base of the climb near the middle of the wall, look just right of the large area of brown stone. Pitch 1 is bolted so you will see the blue bolts/hangers from the base of the climb. GPS coordinates of the base of the route:

39.386352, -120.605340

Protection

Single rack of cams and widgets, Doubles from small to 0.75