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Peak Mountain 3

Route 27

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Description

Start up the next stemming corner left of Cactus Crack, up to the roof.  (This felt hard for the grade, but maybe I didn't have my smear game on.).  Exit the roof to its left and find unexpected face holds on a face that, from below, appears featureless and makes you question whether the book was wrong.  Resist the temptation to keep going left into the Black Wall crack, and instead angle slightly rightward into a hanging R-facing corner. Turn a 2nd overhanging, and climb the pocketed face above.Overall felt hard for the 10d grade in the Jemez book.  Kind of contrived but has some neat sections.  Perhaps you can bypass the start crux to its left.  (Or possibly turn the corner right at the first roof to avoid poorly protected stuff above?).  Would be a scary lead for the face climbing sections.

Location

Start in the next dihedral left of Cactus Crack.  At the first roof angle left, then climb the easiest way up that isn't Black Wall.

Protection

Looked to be mostly finger size cracks, with some poorly-protected face. (I was on TR solo).