South Face

Exciting, vigorous and demanding begin to describe this Superstition test piece. If one is accustomed to chossy rock, great rock, poor protection, excellent protection, sandbagged ratings and even more sandbagged ratings this route should be added to your climbing list.Pitch one begins with some pocket pulling to gain a "nice" crack that feels more 5.9 than the guidebook 5.7 rating. Pump factor sets in as one switches crack systems and ponders the old bolt during the crack transition.Pitch two is a great 5.5 crack that takes one to a grassy ledge. You can combine pitches one and two.Pitch three is a fairly strenuous crack with the crux coming near the end of the pitch. Feels like 5.9+++. Either stop at obvious ledge or continue 30 more feet to an old piton and nut belay. The 30 foot section is somewhat difficult with ledge decking or worse potential if you fail to make the moves.Pitch four is a bit wild and intimidating. We broke this pitch into two.  Two bolts and two pins will be encountered as one proceeds upwards. From the belay mount large boulder and tip-toe over semi-alive, mini juniper through a series of difficult face moves to gain crack system. We belayed atop the obvious detached pillar. From pillar, undercling crack with slippery feet to a decent stance before more difficult face climbing leads to a sloping belay ledge. The lower and upper section of face climbing on this pitch is committing and potentially dangerous if gear is not placed appropriately/wisely. The rock on this pitch is somewhat exfoliating.Pitch five has one traversing 15 feet to the left to enter crack system or possibly climbing straight up off the belay.  I have not lead this pitch, only got looks of it as we rappelled from the summit.  Choose wisely.Pitch six is a thin crack that remains difficult for several moves. Decent holds on the face keeps the climber from pitching off. Engaging 5.11 moves brings one up to nice boulder enclave where you can belay before finishing the final 40 feet of easier climbing.  On our ascent/descent we ended up top-roping this pitch, leading this pitch seems like it would be tough.  Other options to finish exist off the ledge but they seem difficult as well.As an added bonus you can climb some moderate 5th class for two hundred feet in order to reach the start of pitch one. The bonus to this is twofold: avoid the thrash to gain Odyssey and South Face ledge, it adds 200 feet of climbing! You can also rappel from here but it requires two ropes.

Locate the route Odyssey and continue to walk east along edge. Route begins just left of the multi-armed saguaro. If desired you can rappel the entire route with 60 meter rope although a 70 meter will be much safer and less stressful. One can also walk off from the summit either to the east or west. Key landmarks include the large saguaro at the start of the first pitch and several whitewashed bird roosts that one passes on the upper pitches.

We brought a double rack to #4's and a single #5. Some old and new bolt and/or piton belays will be discovered along the route.