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Peak Mountain 3

Red Queen

FA Marius vanderMerwe & Marc Hansen
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Starts on blocky but vertical 5.10sh terrain that leads to a prominent ramp about halfway up the route. Rest up and head out for the obvious sharp red arete. The arete is the 5.11 section of the climb so keep on moving and avoid the pump!

Note: It is possible to avoid the crux move at the bottom of the red arete by going left into the chimney/open book for a move or two before traversing out right to the arete. This variant drops the grade to perhaps an 11a.

Location

To the immediate right of a prominent roof (with a bolted project running through it).

Protection

Around 10 bolts to the 2 bolt anchors.