- Edit (TBD)
Description
Begin 20' right of 'The Good Ol' Days' by scrambling up to a low angle hand crack. Climb this and skank right, aiming for a little bulge feature that protects with a gray master cam. Mantle up on to this and get a stance. Proceed mostly straight up to the base of an overhang and get good pro. Follow path of least resistance up to a short finger crack in a roof. Pull this to a decent hold and climb onto a giant flake feature in the hanging dihedral (hard to see from ground) that you'll follow to its end, gaining another stance just left of the flake's end to a surreal position. Get more gear and climb up and right for another 15-20' to a two pin anchor with webbing and rap rings.
This route has an adventurous feel to it and requires creative gear placements in a couple places. With that being said, it's quite good and offers a spectacular view of endless wall with amazing positions for the leader.
Location
Start of route is defined by low angle hand crack down low on route.
Protection
Single rack to 2" cams. Stoppers and a good selection of 2' slings. A 3" cam can also be placed by the silver master cam for the mantle/bulge move, though the master cam is the better of the two placements. A purple master cam protects the finger crack move in the roof, but I'm sure you can probably use something similar in size.
Routes in 3. Rico Suave Buttress
- 18Louisiana Lou and the Tickler of Poon5.12aTrad