Monkeys In The Clouds

AWESOME Route! Easily noticeable for the prominent 100 M wide crack system and another 300 M of cool face/crack climbing. Could be climbed in the morning and followed by Saber Ridge solo in the afternoon. That would be an awesome day in the mountains! Could also be linked with a climbing trip to Angel Wings or Cherubim Dome. If you like varied climbing, good rock and no lines, this climb is for you!

Pitch 1 - 5.8-9, 100 ft - slab climb below a big overhang while protecting in the crack on your left. Does not get too difficult but keeps you engaged.

Pitch 2 - 5.10, 120 ft - pull over the roof below the first crack and traverse below the second big overhang. Continue traversing towards the second prominent crack. Don't forget to protect for your follower. Clip the only bolt on the route which protects the crux move and get into the crack after making a few cool moves. Continue up to a belay by the end of a big flake.

Pitch 3 - 5.9, 200 ft - Climb up the prominent chimney/OW. Using the face features and slab climbing on the outside when appropriate makes the pitch less physical. Small cams/nuts protect the climbing well - look for it in the back of the chimney.

Pitch 4 - 5.7 R, 200 ft - Fun face climbing leads up the flakes, knobs and wild features for a full pitch. Belay at a cave that looks like a giant vagina.

Pitch 5 - 5.8 R, 200 ft - Climb up and traverse below the the wild formation that from far away looks like a chicken's butt. Continue up the fun, but runout climbing till you are able to make a belay station. Possible to break this into two pitches.

Pitch 6 - 5.10, 130 ft. Climb up to the overhang, traverse left and up the dihedral system. About 20-30 ft below a ledge, I placed pro in the dihedral and traversed left on slab. 5.9 or 5.10 slab move 20 or so ft to the left of the dihedral will get you up to more (small) pro and to the ledge where you can built a belay with finger-size cams.

Pitch 7 - 5.9, 150 ft - From the belay, traverse right and into the dihedral. Follow cracks and more cool features till a nice belay ledge near the edge of the arete.

Pitch 8 - 5.8, 130 ft - Continue straight up the arete taking the path that attracts your attention. Many ways to go, but you will end up on a pinnacle which caps the face.

From the pinnacle, down-climb north and scramble (or simul-climb) about 400 ft of exposed but secure terrain to the true summit.

Approach the formation via a prominent gully - just west of the formation. Look for the prominent wide cracks going over the biggest roof on the South Face. You will be climbing towards the second crack which splits the roof in the middle.

Hike along the base till you are almost level with the cracks and backtrack to the base of the dihedral/slab system which ascends towards these cracks. First crack has a finger-crack-looking-like SEAM which leads to it. You will climb past that one and continue traversing.

Single set of camalots from small to BD #5. Doubles to 0.75 camalot. Confident wide climbers may find the #5 as optional because the prominent chimney usually protects with smaller gear, and is fairly secure!

All belays are natural. In case of bailing leave gear and sling blocks/knobs.