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Peak Mountain 3

Work Shoes

FA Tim Farr & Evan Kirk
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Work Shoes5.73 pitches ~380’P1. (Originally mixed, now >> Sport)

Start just left of the route Trestle, behind a large birch tree, Right of the route Narrow Gauge. Climb up the steep face and clip the bolt over left. Pull up and over and continue up easier terrain, clipping 2 more bolts in the lower angle slab, until you're able to clip another bolt over left by the anchors atop Narrow Gauge. Belay here or continue up and left to the tree ledge above before making a hard right turn to a ledge with a bolted anchor station, mind the rope drag. 5.7, ~130’ portions of this pitch have been climbed as evidence of prior ascents was found (pins). After several stories of people not bringing gear or slipping and the gear ripping, the decision was made by the FA party to add two more bolts in summer 2020, for a total of 4 bolts for P1.) P2. Sport. Step up and follow bolts up the slab above before breaking left and up to a bolted chain anchor behind a down tree on a ledge. 5.5, ~ 110’ ( step up and clip a bolt and move the belay 40’ left to the start of P3)P3.Sport. Move up and right following bolts up slab headed towards the top of the dome and enjoy the views! End at a bolted anchor station on a small ledge. 5.6, ~100’Decent: Rappel over the bulging top over right, just below a small tree, headed for the anchor bolts atop of P2. Rappel straight down to a station placed in the center of the slab, of P2, on a small ledge. Rappel again to The Railroad Ledge and rappel again to the base just right of the route Trestle, merely feet from your packs. It’s also possible to rappel from this bolted slab station past The Railroad Ledge with a 70M but it’s a rope stretcher and may not reach with shorter ropes. Tie knots!Single 60M rope6-8 quickdraws (a few extendable)again, P1 is now bolted (as of July of 2020), but, originally a light cam rack from .3 to .5” was useful for pitch 1.

Location

Start just left of the route Trestle, behind a large birch tree, right of the route Narrow Gauge. Locate a bolt ~10' up on the left.

Protection

Bolted route, only 6-8 draws needed (few extendable). Pitch 1 now has 2 more bolts in the middle section of the climb as of July 2020.