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Peak Mountain 3

Bridge Over Troubled Water

FA Eli Buzzell
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Bridge Over Troubled Water sits in my mind as one of the most unique climbs I have ever done, and I'm certain you will feel the same. It is distinctly sporty, but sound of Livermore Falls' unsettling churn below you adds a sense of adventure that you could otherwise only find on a big wall in a downpour. Expect moves like one of the many beta intensive boulder cruxes on the right side of Waimea. Wear a tight right knee bar pad, and don't expect to get it on the first go. The first bolt is positioned for the belayer to not get sucked out over the waterfall during falls.

Scramble up on to a ledge any way you please and clip the bolt on the face. Tiptoe down to the strange hanging corner feature. Creatively find your way into the corner using all manner of ninja kicks, knee bars, underclings, and butt scums. Finally exit left towards jugs via a perfect rail of crimps. Mantle into easier terrain and climb to the trees up top. 

Location

At the far right end of Livermore Crag. This route climbs over the falls.

Protection

5 bolts, anchor slings. I used a locker draw on the first bolt off the ledge for extra peace of mind.


Routes in Livermore Crag


  1. 1
    Bridge Over Troubled Water
    5.13a
    Sport