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Peak Mountain 3

Rincon

FA L. Kor, Jack Turner, 1962. FFA: J. Erickson, Dave Meyers, 19
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Rincon is four pitches in total, but the first pitch is the most popular, checking in at only 9+ compared to the 11a/b on P3.

P1. Start just right of

Center Route

at the thin crack just right of a bolted line (

Camouflage

, 12c). The climbing is sustained and takes good gear, but the moves are not straight forward jam and go. I never really felt one distinct crux, but it's probably in the first 15 feet. The climbing varies from finger to fist-size crack to face holds. Good route. At the top of P1, if you're not continuing on, set a directional, and traverse 25 feet right to a ledge with a tree that now has 2 bolts--or set up a top rope for some of the more difficult and runout cracks on this wall.

P2. Continue up on moderate terrain, follow the R side of a flake, and up the dihedral. 95 feet.

P3. Move up, stem when possible, get as good gear as possible (small), clip the pin, pull the roof/bulge (crux). This would be a bad place to take multiple falls. Continue to a tree. 90 feet ish.

P4. Continue up the dihedral, clip a bolt, continue up a great crack to a big ledge.

Descend left.

Protection

Wired nuts, TCUs, and a few cams in the 1-2 inch range (up to #2 Camalot) for pitch one.