Lizard King

A long, classic, demanding voyage. Lizard King itself is the right-angling line that crosses the square "movie screen" high up on the cliff just to the left of the dihedral of Silver Bullet and goes at 13a. Three possible entrances will get you to a ledge/intermediate anchor, but most will do this as one long pitch. An 80M will just get you back to the ground from the 5.11 start - best to tie knots. After rain this route can become incredibly sandy, so bring a brush/broom/vacuum.

To start climb one of the following (listed L to R):

• Get To The Roof (5.11a): Large flake 20ft to the left of Racerback with extremely long draws to minimize drag. After a finger crack head right to the Racerback anchor.

• Racerback (5.13b): Directly below the movie screen in a left-facing corner. Starts either with tenuous linebacking (recommend stick-clip) or via a bolt to the right of the first chain draw (back-clean once you clip the 2nd). Racerback heads left at bolt 5 for its crux, then straight up to a ledge/anchor where Lizard King begins. The original way, though out of fashion now.

• Unknown (5.12): Start Racerback but at the 5th bolt head up and right via an undercling crack. Permas on all except one optional bolt that will create drag if left clipped. Bring an alpine for this routes' anchor or run it out to the Racerback anchor. This variation is not in the guidebook (4th edition).

See description

Permanent chain/rope draws