Rio Del Mundo

Misery's the river of the world. This is a lesson most of us learn on a day of climbing at the Flatiron, and the lesson is no less poignant on Rio Del Mundo. This route name was inspired by a Tom Waits song "Misery's the River of the World", and also by the commitment to suffering required for the full day of adventure. Don't let my dramatic rendition scare you off though - this route is definitely worth doing. In fact, the stellar climbing on the long pitch 3 is worth the effort alone. Rio Del Mundo ascends the middle of the Flatiron's north face, on the right side of a feature that stretches over 300 feet up this impressive formation. In it's entirety the route is over 400 feet, with some stoke-worthy climbing on much of it. As with all routes in the superstitions, wear a helmet, pull down not out, and expect some looseness. Most anchors require and take good gear to supplement single bolts/pitons. Pack in such a way that you can climb with all your stuff. You don't want to have to hike back up to the base to retrieve your leftovers.    

Look for an obvious gully/trail branching right from the main hiker's trail to the flatiron, roughly .5 miles from top-out of the regular trail. It should be pretty apparent and points in the direction of the base of the flatirons north face - roughly at its midpoint. Hike the steep and loose, wandering path up dirty, loose rocks and scree. As you approach the middle of the base, look for the long, right facing dihedral ascending the middle the large wall. Aim your feet toward the wall in a plumb line directly below the dihedral.

Pitch 1: There are two options for pitch one, a direct 5.7+ R, or a wandering 5.8. Option a: climb wandering cracks that start slightly right of large roof/ledge above, trending left toward large ledge below obvious roof. You will pass a yucca. This option is roughly

5.8, wandering, loose, and dirty but sufficient pro. 85 feet

Option b: Climb crack system directly below large ledge and subsequent roof directly above. Some dirty sections but more direct and fun than option a. Though runout in spots - 5.7+ R. 85 feet. Pitch 1 ends on large ledge directly below roof. One bolt and many options to back up with pro.

Pitch 2: Follow crack on right side of roof, pull roof on amazing hand jams, then continue up great climbing. Pass an anvil shaped rock, climbing on its left side - then to easier climbing but softer rock. Once above anvil, you can continue straight up on 5.8ish face/stemming to finish pitch or do airy step left to crack and finish pitch that way. Overall beautiful crack with a lot of nice hands and finger with great pro on mostly good rock. Ends on large ledge below intimidating overhung crack through roof, 2 pitons. 5.10a, 90 feet.

Pitch 3: This is the coveted pitch. 150 feet of beautiful and varied crack climbing - fairly consistent in difficulty. Climb up crack through bulge/roof. Left of crack is a rounded arete that has some loose rock, it will force you to depend on good crack technique (crux 5.10+),  large and rattling fists. Continue up easier ground for a bit until you reach a strenuous but short chimney/offwidth (5.10b) - good pro below and above, as well as deep within. Your heart will be pumping as you pull though it, and continue up beautiful hand, fingers, and layback. You will pass a single bolt, which you can use in addition to gear in crack to create a semi-hanging belay. This is an option if you want to split up this pitch due to fatigue, 2nd thoughts, or you don't think you have enough gear to finish the pitch. That singe bolt is approximately 60 feet from top of pitch. The crack continues to ledge with large rocks and single bolt - good opportunities to back it up are close by. 5.10+, 150 feet.

Pitch 4: Directly above single bolt is a 35ft finger crack, take that, decent gear though some looseness/lichen on rock it is stellar climbing. Continue up intermittent cracks, following best pro, trending slightly right toward the top with fun finish. Most of this pitch has good rock and is surprising fun. 5.9, 105 feet. 2 bolt anchor above ledge. Decent: Hike down the standard hikers trail. 

double rack tips through #4 with good collection of nuts. Bring around 6 alpine draws as well.