A Pirate's Life

The first pitch is amazing. Delicate, pumpy, steep and varied. The rest of the climb is quite a bit more moderate. Even still it makes for a fun adventure and a great cap to any day in sandstone canyon. P1- A V3 boulder problem protected by 2 bomber knifeblades leads to a bouldery and varied crack. Stop at a stance right where the the crack tops out or continue up the easy face to a small ledge about 60 ft up. 140 ft 5.11b P2- Easy face and crack leads up then left to the base of a massive, slabby left facing corner. 150 ft 5.6 P3- Straight up the thin slabby corner, belay on a ledge right below the massive roof. 100 ft 5.8 P4- Escape to the right and stretch your rope on easy slab. 200 ft 5.4 P5- Continue up the ridge until you feel comfortable putting the rope away.

Descent- Scramble up and right, aiming for the large tower shaped summit. Cut right down the scramblers gully at the base of the tower. 3/4th class slabs lead you back tot the wash.

This climb is on the very far climbers right end of the gecko wall. The first pitch will become visible as you hike up the wash. For the best access, continue pretty far up the wash and cut up via path of least resistance to the bench at the base of the route.

Single Rack micro to 3, doubles fingers and hands.