- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is the intriguing right-facing dihedral with the seam 2 lines to the left of, and facing Batshit Crack.
The best start is the unlikely face, rather than the cracks to either side (but you could use those if you like). Chill at a ledge half-way, and make a plan for how to conquer the overhanging "Heinous Dihedral", using some combination of stemming and locking off on small crimps.
A lead would involve placing crucial gear in a pretty important handhold that starts the crux sequence (we TRed it) without other gear protecting the hardest part.
Location
The overhanging right-facing corner with the seam should be obvious. Just right of the Half Moons buttress, left of Rumsey's Lead.
Protection
TR it and suss it out yourself. (usual stuff, nothing big, I'd think)
Routes in New New Place
- 10Fever Pitch5.12aTr · Trad