Beam Me Up

A 3-pitch continuation of either Silent Spring or Brightly Colored Males, this is a longish route that takes you to the top of Gully Cliff.

P1 - Climb either Silent Spring (5.5) or Brightly Colored Males (5.6) to the tree ledge above.

Move the belay 25-30 ft up though the trees (was pretty much a path when I did it several years ago.)

P2 - Climb easily up the crack in the shallow "groove / corner" to its top, then straight up to horizontal cracks. Along these to the left 20-25 ft and when you notice they go nowhere you want to go, climb straight up the pocked face 40 ft ( 5.4 R/X, a small wired nut possible 25 ft up ) to a second horizontal crack. (Optional belay) Take this horiz. crack left 50 +/- ft and finish up a short slab to a belay tree. 180 ft 5.4 R/X

P3 - Move left 10 ft on a dirt ramp to a crack-corner, up this to a good horizontal (#1 Red Camalot) then climb up over freshly broken flakes and unprotected friction (5.5 - 5.6 R?) for a few moves, gradually easing to another good horizontal crack. Then we moved up and left towards trees where (at the time) there was a fixed rope with a figure "8" on it for protection. Left and into the trees and up to a belay. 160 ft 5.5 -5.6R

P4 - Up to the top. At least two alternates: 1) Left to an easy gully-crack system (5.0) or 2) directly up a crack (5.5-5.6?) to slab and the top. 50 ft

This climb apparently had been "lost" in later editions of Mellor's guidebooks, and even in the 1st Ed of Adirondack Rock the key second horizontal traverse on P2 was omitted. [the keen-eyed might still see a tree with rap slings above and to the right mid-way on P2]

Usual rack and a selection of thin wire nuts