Bobcat Spire (Original Route)

The original line on Bobcat Spire carries a mixed bag of climbing and is highlighted by a truly outrageous roof crack on the second pitch.

Pitch 1 (5.10, 100 feet): Climb a seam past gear and two bolts to a desperate mantel. Chug up the long, easy (and slightly loose) ramp. Move left into a hand/fist splitter and pull through a strenuous overhang. Two-bolt belay in the alcove.

Pitch 2 (5.10+/.11-, 80 feet): The main attraction. Move up the steepening stembox and catch a rest under the imposing downward-pitched roof. Savour the position before hand-jamming the roof crack and pulling a difficult crux move at the lip. Clip the fixed draw as a directional to keep the rope from getting pinched in the lip. Continue up easier choss to a two-bolt belay.

Pitch 3 (5.7, 60 feet): Move up into the hanging chimney, clip a bolt at the entrance and squeeze up to a two-bolt anchor below the summit stack.

Scramble 20 feet up to the summit stack. Sign the summit log and appreciate a view of southwest Sedona that not many climbers get to see!

Descent: Rappel the route with one 60m rope.IMPORTANT: When rapping P2, in order to keep your rope from getting pinched in the roof, you must clip both strands into the fixed biner on the bolt at the lip of the roof as you rap past it. Consider bringing a wrench to tighten this bolt down.

This line directly follows the central crack on the southeast face from bottom to top. The route starts at a juniper tree. Look for the first two bolts on the slab/face directly above the tree.

Double set of cams to 2" + one each 3-4" cams * optional 6" cam (protects 10 feet of 5.8/9 climbing just below the roof crack)