- Edit (TBD)
Description
There are several variations I have done off the Saber ledge. This is described as a horizontal traverse after going up the Saber Chimney to join Canary after the bolted section. The book does not describe where or how far up Saber the horizontal is, maybe about 30' I have traversed a steep wall and come out on the blocky arete right of Canary.
Another good variation is to go straight up the face between Canary and Saber from the Saber ledge. It is still 5.9, but has some tricky steep face climbing and watch out for fragile flakes, instead of joining Canary, keep going up blocky arete, veering more right and come to a bolted anchor on the face left of Saber inside corner.
Location
at the top of pitch 1 of Saber or Canary on large ledge.
Protection
standard rack, plenty of long slings..
Routes in Upper Castle
- 27Orange Peel5.9Trad