- Edit (TBD)
Description
Testy finger crack climbing interspersed with quality face moves typifies this challenging line.
Besides being a massive sandbag at 11a, the rusted piton guarding a potential deck adds much excitement for your headspace. A bolt here would make a lot of sense, the 30+ year piton made this ascent possible but has earned an honorable discharge. A small offset nut can be placed before the piton and a 00 C3 2’-3’ after, but good luck getting these in while fully tensioned on committing layback and face moves. Other than this section, protection is great.
A flaring finger crack that looked locker from below awaits you after the initial difficulties. Easier climbing up and then right to a newer double anchor on an unknown (and difficult) sport climb that follows an arete immediately right allows one to easily bypass the original aged chains to this route.
Location
An obvious crack line with a rusted piton 10’ up on the far left side of Train Time Wall
Protection
Small offset nuts, doubles of tiny cams to .75” and singles of 1-2”, two bolt anchor with lowering biners