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Peak Mountain 3

Grace

FA Bob Loomis, seconded by Christian Striggow, 6 September 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The route starts in an obvious right facing corner capped by an overhang.  Climb on good face and finger jams up to the overhang and move right around the overhang to get to the start of this very solid slightly overhanging hand, fist, and off-fist crack.  The crack is not to be missed for a climber in this area trying to develop his/her crack climbing skills because the crack starts with tight hands and widens to off-fist size--so either as a lead or top-rope the crack is a chance to build skill on several crack sizes.  The crack takes excellent gear from start to finish.  After the overhang the route is vertical--it is not overhanging the whole way.  There is a large tree or good cracks to set up top-rope anchors.  The route is named after a 2020 newborn baby girl who promises to grace this world with her presence as she grows up.

Location

This route is hard to miss once one has located Grace's Buttress (also hard to miss).  It starts in a right facing dihedral capped by an overhang on the left side (river side) of the buttress.  The upper 2/3rds of the route is an obvious hand to off-fist slightly overhanging crack--easy to see.

Protection

Pro to 4 inches. One over the shoulder sling is a good idea at the start to keep rope drag to a minimum. A small selection of small cams is a good idea to protect the start until one has exited the overhang on its right side. After that the crack takes excellent solid cams all the way up. The large tree (long slings needed if used) or the obvious cracks at the top can be used at top rope anchors if a climber does not feel up to leading it but wants to practice his/her crack climbing skills.  Likely this route will settle more in the 5.9 difficulty range once it has been climbed a few times and cleans up a bit.  Like any first ascent there was a bit of lichen here and there, but the crack itself is now reasonably clean as are the key face holds.


Routes in Grace's Buttress


  1. 1
    Grace
    5.9
    Tr · Trad