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Peak Mountain 3

Purple Serpent

FA L. Bear, Pink; Shred, T.; Lover, G.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Purple Serpent is the right of the two sport climbs currently on the south face of the Devil's Advocate and climbs directly out the wall on steepening rock to a wild finish on the wave-like swell. A 70-METER ROPE is MANDATORY!

Climb an easy slab to the hueco'ed face, which continues with fun, ever-steepening jug hauling to an anchor at two-thirds height. Stop here if you want at 5.10+, or clip the right anchor bolt, then keep going up the wavy, sculpted headwall above, which features continuously bouldery climbing off the belay along "tufa serps" to a good rest (left kneepad helpful) to a boulder-problem finish out the final black bulge. Bring your crimping power.

Many thanks to OSMP, the FCC, and the FHRC for keeping new-routing in the Flatirons alive and well.

Location

It is the rightmost of two sport routes on the south face of the Advocate and is more or less dead-center on the wall.

Protection

16 or 17 bolts.