We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Nolina Crack

FA Todd Swain and Dick Peterson, November 1989
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a reasonably fun route and totally worth doing, but the shortness and the big Nolina that you have to climb past (not painful or overly awkward) in the crack do detract from it. Were it not for that it would deserve a star or two. Around and left 75' from Jack of Hearts is this arching finger crack behind a flake. Where the flake ends a bolt protects a couple of steep friction moves (5.9). Downclimb left (mildly exposed 4th class) or scramble right (very exposed but easier 3rd class) to the rappel station atop Jack of Hearts / Ace of Spades.

Protection

Several pieces in the .75-1.25" range as well as a handful of larger and smaller pieces. One bolt at the top.