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Peak Mountain 3

Spliff Spire

FA Derek Field & Nolan Burman (Halloween 2019)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Spliff Spire will get you a little high, and the summit pitch might give you a quick head rush.

Pitch 1 (5.9, 80', 7 bolts): Climb the fatty slab past 7 bolts, with the crux at the 3rd bolt. Go for a nature walk to the right and have a safety meeting at the two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.9+, 80', 3 bolts + gear): Give your bravest leader the greens on this one. Traverse 15' right to an incipient crack. Bogart the blackened right-facing seam/pod corner, clip a bolt and pass it right into the notch. Stem up the wild gap to a bolt where you must commit to the last bit of burning spire. Throwback-Sedona face climbing leads to the summit past another bolt and optional gear in pockets if the pot paranoia starts creeping in. Two-bolt chain anchor on top.

Descent: Rappel the route, making sure to rap directly over the bolt line in order to hit the P1 anchor. Alternatively, bring a second rope and simply rap straight to the ground.

Location

The route starts as a bolted slab below the spire on its south side.

Protection

Single set cams to 3" + optional extra #1 camalot one 60m rope (opt. second rope - see rappel beta)


Routes in Spliff Spire


  1. 1
    Spliff Spire
    5.9+
    Trad