Lost in America

Classic right side aid route. Main characteristic is fairly sustained beaking linked by hook traverses and rivits. The crux for most party’s is not the A4 but the mandatory 5.10 face climbing pitch. Our free gun took the pitch and said the moves where crimps on expanding/flexing flakes with a copper head as the first pro 15 feet off the belay. It’s a short section of 5.10 though. If you don’t have a free gun, an aid variation exists at A3+ called the beefaroni, which consists off a few steps or hooks to the right of the belay to a flake you can beak to some 5.8. The two aid crux’s of the route are pitch 8 and 9 aren’t to bad. Pitch nine is only A4 because of the corner you’d swing into if you pulled that whole flake your hooking with bomber large pika hooks. Cams and other gear options exist in the flake in question, the second just has to have a couple hooks to do some re-aid trickery to avoid lowering out on the sparse pro left behind. Pitch 8 used to be considered the crux of the route and has a tenuous thin natural 30 ft hook traverse protected by one number one beak, and a few copper heads into expanding nailing into expanding cams. Pitches like the fly or die and the dead roads are classic. The last move of LIA as it links into ZM is a really fun penji off the belay into the ZM A2 arrows cornor, I stuck the swing with a heal hook to get a cam hook in. Overall the aid never felt to hard. Comparable to tribal rite.

Beak seem to the right of t trip. Goes off a terrace at the edge of the woods.

Leave most of the iron rack just bring a hella lot of beaks and bring all the totems. We only used a couple of arrows, mostly on the ZM pitches. All hangerless button heads or machine head rivits. No sawed off angles, and just one KB low on the route. Bring the head kit as ripping a string of copper heads is possible. Some expoxi would be handy to erase some bat hooks holes that have no reason to be there. No lead bolts with hangers until ZM.