Fighting on Your Knees

One of the all time classic trad routes in the Cheat Canyon. A must do for the serious trad climber!  Begin in a finger layback on the climber’s right side of the buttress, and make a powerful move to a letterbox slot.  Place a crucial red BD c3 or equivalent from a mandatory one arm  sloper hang (I hope you’ve been hangboarding!).  If you didn’t pump yourself out placing gear, traverse right on incut crimps to access another crack system (crux).  Arrive at a rest, and place good gear.  Move from the arête to the face, and continue on perfect edges.  There is gear just when you need it, but the little runout gives the climb an exciting feel.  The upper face originally was bolted by Chris Egress as part of a project following the arête (now called Watch it Run 5.12b).  With his permission, the hangers were removed, as it was discovered the line went safely on gear.

This line ascends the crack system on the climber’s right side of the buttress

Gear