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Climb the face directly below the notch to the left of Fantasy. You will find the crux in the middle of the climb, left hand up to a tiny and sharp crimper, bring both feet up and launch the right hand to an innocent looking jug. Unfortunately, the jug is as sharp as a knife and you may lose a finger. Another option is to proceed up and slightly left from the sharp crimper to other micro-sharp holds. Either way your fingers lose, there is a reason this climb is often overlooked.
Location
20 feet to the right of Acid Rock
Protection
Top Rope
Routes in 06: Gill's Buttress
- 16Weasels Ripped My Flesh5.12aTr