- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a typical Big Rock moderate slab with great holds and a crux halfway up at a bulge.
The route starts with a few thoughtful moves down low which leads to a bulge halfway up, which is the crux.
At the crux, trending to the left presents more opportunities for foot placements and hand holds up high to push over the bulge. However a variation exists to the right that is probably a 1/2 grade harder but is less well protected.
Once you are over the bulge its an easy scramble up to rap rings near the top. From here a top rope can be setup to climb other variations on this slab.
Its proper to also give a shout out to our friends Bob O, Nolan G. and Adam V. who all assisted with cleaning and prepping the route.
Footnote: the name is derived from a family member, a "cold war" warrior, who was a U.S. Army Intelligence officer (and fluent in Russian and German) who was stationed in Berlin at a time when there was no permanent wall but he was listening in on Russian communications as the wall went up. He heard and reported on the Russians and East Germans constructing the wall days before it went up. This information made its way up the COC to the highest levels and the cold war escalated to another level. Afterward, many German families, including the family of his new German bride, would be separated for a generation. A lifetime later, at age 84, he succumbed to covid-19 on 30 Nov 2020. We dedicate this route to a cold war veteran who loved his country and democracy until his last day.
Location
This route is on a partially shaded southwest slab downhill from Fireball but its a distinct separate slab adjacent to Fireball's west face. To get to the route follow the rutted trail uphill and head around to the prominent west face and look downhill towards a slab that leans uphill towards the west face. This is the route in profile. Continue downhill and look for the belay station.
Protection
7 bolts to rap rings. Crux is well protected by a bolt.
Routes in Whisky Rock
- 2Spying on the Russians5.7Sport