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Peak Mountain 3

Little Edward's Little Overhang

FA Ed Webster & Kevin Murray, 1978
CREATED May 2023
UPDATED May 2023

Description

Little Edward's Little Overhang is an obscure Turkey Rocks route that, as the name implies, poses an interesting roof problem.

Start by climbing a slightly licheny, right-facing corner, and then make a few 5.8-5.9 moves protected by small nuts to gain a broken finger crack above. Follow the crack to the well-protected roof, and use a big jug and the #3 crack directly above to overcome it. Finish up on easier terrain to the anchor.

There is apparently a low quality second pitch, but I did not climb it.

Location

Look for a large roof on the far right (east) end of the crag. It's approximately 30-40 feet off the deck. Begin beneath it in a right-facing corner to the right of

The Fiend

.

Protection

A standard rack with doubles in finger and hand sizes. There is a cable anchor at the top.


2000 km
1000 mi