Spinner Spire

Choss! This route gets one star because the summit is amazing.  Small, perfectly flat and sporting amazing views.  This spire was originally attempted in 2004 by Jake Dayley and Chris Tatum and later that year with Dustin Wildermuth.  These attempts failed due to poor rock, spinning bolts and vaginal sand.

Locate the South facing crack system and climb up ever steepening terrain.  After the 4th bolt the route veers right into worsening choss. Tiptoe past a mudball and into the relative security of a squeeze chimney.  Continue up the squeeze with ease to the crux OW roof/mantle. Cruise to the excellent summit. Terrible rock but good pro or bolts when you need them.  

Rap: 70' down the North side to the notch.

Rack: Doubles to #3.  Singles - #4, #5.  An assortment of draws/slings. One 60m rope. Helmet!

Spinner Spire is located below the Land of Spires in the large amphitheater atop the drainage*

Approach 1.0-1.5 hours. Follow the Long Canyon trail for 30-40 minutes (crossing the creek twice) to a point where the trail nears the creek.  You'll pass a stand of large dead Cypress trees just before this point. Leave the trail to enter the wash and locate the small tributary that heads up to the Land of Spires and Sock Puppet Spire area.  At the fork in the stream go right towards Land of Spires. Prepare to thrash. Pass through an incredible overhanging amphitheater and continue up. The first drainage to the right (climbers) of Spinner Spire goes but requires a 12 foot 5.8 boulder problem.  Easier to continue right, in the ever shrinking drainage all the way up and through a sandstone cliff band, then traverse left several hundred feet to the spire.  Walk all the way around to the South side to find the route.

Mixed pro and bolts. Bolted anchor.