Porno Book

Beware of the plus. Definitely not for the beginner trad leader, but a great adventure on the black wall.

Pitch 1 - Start in the obvious gully left of Lighting Bolt Roof. Small steep section is immediately followed by mostly fourth or low fifth class climbing. Belay under the roof or at the anchors below (when did those show up?) 5.6

Pitch 2 - Follow a ledge left for about 15 feet before taking a ramp back over to the main corner/book. Can feel scary because of all the plants taking up your hand and foot holds, but remember how to stem and you should be fine. Belay beneath the obvious steeper corner on some sandy ledges. 5.7

Pitch 3 - Tackle the steep corner above you and don't freak out as the crux seems a lot harder than 5.7. Hence the plus. Clip an old pin and stem you're way through. We climbed past the next ledge to an upper ledge for ease of getting off the rock but maybe we just didn't look hard enough for the descent. Find a way to the descent on climber's right to bring you back down around to the base. 5.7+

Obvious cleft/gully just left of Lightning Bolt Roof.

Single rack to 4", doubles 1-3"