Ride the Lightning

This is why you started rock climbing. Inspiring roofs, slabs, traverses and exposure rolled into four very different moderate pitches. Everything to test the new 5.10 leader.

P1

Climb “Behind the Tomb Stone.

5.9

P2

“Rope Eating Mice” Bolts and a couple finger to tight hand size gear placements. Face moves to start into expanding flakes and a high crux. Stop at the first set of anchors NOT the high set of rap rings.

10a/b

P3

“ From the lower belay, make an easy traverse right, up a ramp with optional gear, aiming for an obvious low bolt on an exposed Arete (5.6)  At the bolt match low then make an exposed karate kick to good feet and slap out right to a jug. Follow bolts up exposed terrain minding your feet with a few reachy moves.

10c

P4

This pitch can be seen from the pullout by the river. It’s a fantastic clip up on slabby mantles, high steps and a memorable foot traverse with extraordinary views of Mt Index and the river singing in the background.

10a

The FA team completed the route sans headlamp during an end of season lightning storm 2019.

Park at the river pull-out and cross the tracks. Walk into the woods behind the Wart. You will see a large triangular pedestal of rock. Locate “Behind the Tomb Stone” and go for it!

Descent:

70 M ROPE!!!! Lower from the 4th to 3rd pitch. Make a long free hanging rap from the top of the 3rd pitch to the anchors atop “Behind the Tomb Stone”

Gear:

12 quick draws single rack to 1inch, 70 meter rope

P1 blue or purple tcu. Bolts 5.8/9

P2 0.75, 1 and 0.3 Camelot,  Bolts 10a/b

p3 Bolts 10c

p4. Bolts 10a

12 quick draws. Blue TCU and a couple mid sized cams to sew it.