Orgasmatron

This is a challenging route. Begin from the top of the pillar described below. Climb to a roof, then undercling left and pull around to the left side of a sharp arete. Climb straight up to where the angle eases, veer left, then back up and right to the 2-ring anchor at the top of the wall.

NOTE: Bob D'Antonio's guidebook has Lost Highway and Orgasmatron switched in the photo. On the third pitch, Orgasmatron is to the left of Lost Highway.

Per

Carl Schaefer

: in the 2nd edition of the D'Antonio guidebook, a correction now shows Orgasmatron to the left of the 3rd pitch of

Lost Highway

.

This route runs parallel to the final pitch of

Lost Highway

and begins from the common belay atop a large pillar. The

Lost Highway

Area is located at the far right side of the wall. Hike the West Trail to near its high point, and take a left branch that leads west to a large boulder perched on bare granite. Continue down to the north about 30 feet, down a short groove, and locate a 2-bolt anchor on a small and exposed ledge beneath a scrub juniper. Rappel 85 feet to a good ledge atop a pillar. The Orgasmatron may also be reached by climbing the first two pitches of

Lost Highway

(q.v.).

9 bolts with a 2-bolt anchor at either end of the pitch.