- Edit (TBD)
Description
Highly recommended. If it cleans up it should become quite popular.
Make a powerful but well protected move to get up to the beautiful right rising crack finding just the right place to pull up. Trust me, there is a sweet spot in there. Dream the crack was 100 feet long before continuing up to the ledge above to place gear conveniently in your best handhold. Work up through and above the right-facing corner to a stance that is currently a bit dirty. Burn straight up finding one small nut on the way. It's possible to chicken out here and traverse left if you get the willies on little gear.
Originally lead to a bolted anchor atop Third Wave which has since been removed, it's now possible to continue straight up to the chain anchors for the top of Saskatoon Slab.
Location
Ten feet right of Vanishing Act and Left of the line of bolts up the arete. Aim for the right-rising crack.
Protection
Standard rack, emphasis on finger sized cams. Tricams could be helpful too. Should be solid at the grade, some small runouts but the gear is quality.
Anchors at the top of Saskatoon Slab.
Routes in October Wall
- 4Nuffin' But a Puffin5.10aTrad