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Peak Mountain 3

Dwarf's Dilemma

FA Mark Rolofson, September 28, 2002
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This short climb can be climbed either of two ways: the direct line is .12c, and the indirect line is .12a. While the guidebook "

Boulder Canyon

" by Jason Haas and Chris Weidner lists the easier line and its grade, I felt this way was a cop out, thus avoiding a challenging piece of climbing. Each way starts by ascending a thin crack up and right to a painful fingerlock. Move left onto the arete using tiny crimpers. Reach a good hold on the left side of the arete, and finish up the left side. My star rating also applies to the direct line.  There are 10 to 12 moves total.

Location

It is left of

Wind Song

.

Protection

3 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor.