- Edit (TBD)
Description
Pitch One: (100ft) Make some easy moves off the ground then grapple with entry moves in the hard offwidth that becomes a chimney. Scoot back in the chimney, place, then go back out and wiggle up, belay at ledge.
Pitch Two: (100ft) Ascend the corner via ledges and seams and exit right out of the roof then jam and chimney your way until you have a short #3 cam crack on your right that leads you to a very roomy ledge.
Pitch 3: (50ft) From the belay ledge go up the good arching hands crack, and gain a ledge. Then head back and look for a corner with a roof, belay below the roof:
Pitch 4: (100ft) Pull through the roof on jams and edges until it seams out and make a cool traverse left and then up into some steep jamming to the top.
A fun route that has a bit of everything and gets you up there.
Location
Go right of Big Mo and pass a long, right-facing dihedral then pass an even larger, right-facing dihedral. Go around the large prow and the route starts on a bench beneath a large looking crack.
Descent: Walk down to where the wall starts to get shorter (about 200 yards) go down a slab dotted with trees and find the lowest and biggest juniper close to the edge. There are blue webbing and rap rings. One single rope rap.
Protection
Doubles up to a #4 and one #5. Nuts.