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Peak Mountain 3

Program Director

FA K Cassidy, P Gallagher, E. Wiggans, '88
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

About .9 miles into Long canyon, on the right, you will see a striking series of crack and corner systems. There is a "loop" pull-off on the left side of the road. Hike slightly up-road and towards the rock on the right to intercept a trail system on the near side of a non-distinct approach ridge. I will probably find this, but sice the beginning of the trail is not obvious, you probably won't find it right away.

A distinguishing feature to aim for is a HUGE, square, black boulder sitting a few hundred feel below the wall, tipping at the edge of a small rotton cliff band below the climbing buttress. This rock is a few hundred meters below the base of Program Director.

Program Director can be identified as a clean, solid splitter with a slight offset, starting 30' up a 'mound' in a left-facing corner, and quickly opening up to a pleasant, solid crack-climb. The line zig-zags a little and the right side is offset (sticks out) about 6-10 inches in mmost places. Just as it gets enduro, a small jog in the crack seems to appear and give you a good resting foothold.

Great line, easier with bigger hands, will probably feel closer to 10+ for small hands. I had to fist-jam some of the moves. Tape or grind!

Rap from the anchor up top with two 60M ropes! No middle anchor is there.

Protection

A set of TCU's down to 1", with 2 cams each up to 2.5", then perhaps 4 #3's and 6 or more #3.5's. That is to lead it in a single pitch. If you like your cams closer than 10' to each other, take more 2.5-3.5" cams. two 60M ropes are required to descend (no middle anchor)