Irish Goodbye

Start at the base near the trail looking up at the obvious bolt line of

Sunset Arete

. Scramble/climb up the ramp/open dihedral. Head left of the first bolt of

Sunset Arete

, which can be clipped with a long sling, or wait and get a #4-ish Camalot in the big, horizontal break above. Climb the obvious corner left of

Sunset Arete

. Stemming and the odd hand or fist jam takes you all the way to the top, and passing a couple of bulges keeps the route sustained. It eats gear including each Camalot from #0.75-#4 and large wires. At the top, there are 3 options: make an anchor with gear; reach over, and clip a long sling into the bolts for

Sunset Arete

; or head higher up, and use a small tree.

To descend, you can rap from the bolts (a bit awkward) or scramble/walk left back to the trail.

Descend the lower trail from the parking into Upper Dream Canyon. Thunder Point lies a short way above the trail near where the log fence ends and it becomes a stone staircase. For

Sunset Arete

and

Center Tap Corner

, you might like to scramble up a short distance to a tree on the right to belay. For Irish Goodbye, it makes sense to stay lower near the trail, as you can't see the most of the climb from that tree on the right.

A standard Camalot rack (incl. #4) and large wires. Alpine draws are very useful for the bulges.