- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a climb I led in 10/21/78. It is located on the right side of the rock and begins on the ground, just left of an obvious, short, two-tiered, left-facing dihedral that has a consistently hand-sized crack. (See the photo posted for "
Left-Facing Dihedral
.")
Climb up blobby rock, with no pro, angling right to meet the exit of "
Left-Facing Dihedral
." Belay on the big, grassy ledge about 40 feet up.
Climb straight up lower-angled, featured terrain, then angle right to the top of the big, HIGH left-facing dihedral. We belayed at a small (but not tiny) conifer on a ledge. This route crosses
Unknown 9+
here. That route's bolted station lies to the left of the tree, but it isn't useful to belay the short, steep top section of the HIGH left-facing dihedral.
Climb the short, crux left-facing dihedral (bomber medium stopper and hex placements, or an unnecessary new bolt; old-school 5.7, if dry) to a big ledge, then continue to the top of the cliff. We walked off, although there is now a bolted anchor.
Protection
SR, including a medium Hex for crux on third pitch.
Routes in West Slabs
- 71978 Bracksieck/Mallow Route5.7Trad