Eternity Road

Some questionable rock at the bottom and near the crux made this climb a little unnerving as did a very old ring piton at the crux. A bolt has replaced the manky old pin since there isn't natural pro nearby. I turned the bulge left of the pin then worked back right to the crack the first time up. The second time (with a new bolt next to the old pins location) I stayed just left of the crack and found the moves to be pretty hard.

With help from Jim Scott and Geir Hundal, I added a 5.11- R two bolt direct finish to this climb. It heads up the face between Seventh Soujourn and Question of Balance. You might wander a bit getting past the first bolt but then it pretty much climbs straight past the second bolt to a very shallow horizontal where an orange Metolius cam just fits. Then it goes straight up for another 10 feet or so. Thin and tenuous climbing as well as the potential of breaking your ankles keep it in the spirit of the rest of the route even though I top roped it to figure out where the bolts should go then rap drilled them. John Steiger in the first guidebook described this route as a "worthy contrivance". This is because it would be easy to move left or right a bit and avoid the difficult moves. I think this applies to the direct finish as well.

Starts just left of 7th Sojourn in the gully between Mean Mistreater Slab and Faded Rock.

2 yellow camalots and singles of everything else down. Some steel or brass wired stoppers might help.