Old and the Bold

P1 (10c, 18 bolts)

Starting to the right of the pillar climb up a seam passing a rap station just left of the route ~half way up the pitch (you'll use it on the descent). Note: This pitch has the crappiest rock on the route. If you can get through it you'll be rewarded with some fun pitches on better rock up top. The route is worth more stars as this pitch cleans up.

P2 (10a, 3 bolts, gear to #4 Camalot)

Head up a short but awkward grainy crack past 2 bolts to a black chimney. Follow easier ground up the right-most crack system on better rock.

P3 (8, 10 bolts, gear to #2 Camalot)

Clip a bolt and step right around the arete onto a varnished face. Head up the face to the bolted anchor (hanging belay) or build a more cushy on a shrubby ledge at the base of the 10b corner.

P4 (10b, gear to #4 Camalot)

Grunt up the left-facing corner. Belay from either the top of the corner or at the base of the next left-facing corner.

P5 (10b, 2 bolts, gear to #4)

Head up the left-facing corner clipping a bolt under the roof as you traverse to the anchor.

The route starts just uphill from the pillar that sits on the right half of Big Horn Wall and climbs a reddish wall continuing through a break in the prominent roof system. The route stays shady even in summer.

DESCENT

Rap the route with 6 35m raps.

70m rope

Gear to #4 Camalot, extra #1-3s (nuts not necessary). Note: If you use the alternate belay for P3 you'll use up a #2. The next pitch is fairly sustained #2s and #3s so if you're not solid at that size consider triples.