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Peak Mountain 3

Armed & Dangerous

FA Malik-Goris, November 2019
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1:  Cowgirls Like 'em Big!  5.10 singles 1-6 camalot.

P2:  "Cowboys Like 'em Skinny"  Flakes and finger cracks off the left side of the ledge.  Several crack switches and fun granite style climbing to a ledge on the arete.    5.11 (40m rap to ground) Purple c3- #1 camalot with 2x 0.3, 4x 0.4, 4x 0.5, and a blue metolius.

P3:  Crisp double cracks above the belay then go left to an interesting roof (careful).  Belay on the ledge above the roof.  5.11.  Blue metolius, 3x 0.3, 3x 0.4, 2x 0.5, 0.75 camalots.

p4:  More double cracks.  They start thin and get bigger.  Stemming to fingers to hands.   Continue to the rim.  5.11.  Yellow ball nut, purple metolius, 000 - #4 camalot, 2x 0.3-0.75.

Rap the route off bolted anchors.

The route is mostly clean but there is some questionable rock on P3.  Please be considerate of others below.

Location

From the approach trail locate the upper pitches of Pistol Whipped.  About 100' to the left is a large left facing dihedral with a splitter tips-handcrack (p4) in black varnish on the left wall.   Pitches 2 & 3 are identifiable as the crack system that crosses the arete below the dihedral.

Protection

000-4 with 3-4x 0.3-0.5 camalot and 2x 0.75. Plus a 5 & 6 for Cowgirls...