White Pillar Route #1- The Gear Gobbler

Takes gear very well.

Varied, fun, and at times techy climbing with five pitches at a very consistent 5.10 grade, some beautiful ridge climbing up high.

P1  - 5.10, 40m, start below obvious splitter crack off of glacier. Climb right-trending crack system until possible to traverse into splitter hand crack. Execute thin traverse 15' left into hand crack, climb to ledge below red rock face. P2&3 - traverse right on ledge below red rock face into 4th class gully for 2 pitches then traverse back left to bottom of white pillar. A direct line could likely be established between the top of P1 and the bottom of white pillar, we attempted this terrain but it was wet and dirty at the time of the FA, so we traversed right above the red face. P4 - 5.10, 20m, start below red corner in middle of face, climb cracks, flakes, and face holds to gain small ledge below red corner P5 - 5.10, 20m, stem and jam up red corner to gain ledge below final left facing dihedral P6 - 5.10+, 30m, climb dihedral, thin stemming low to #0.75 layback handcrack and easy corner exit at top of headwall P7 - Short 5.10 handrack on ridge to gain lower angled ground P8-9 -  4th-5th class ridge to final steep pitch below summit P10 - 5.10, 10m, climb steep twin cracks just to the lookers right of the summit snowfield then 4th class to summit

Several options for descent: A - Descend Fogels-Visscher (ridge to climber's left of White Pillar) to the low point on the ridge then rap back to the south side snowfield B - Partially descend SE ridge then rap 'Balancing Act' C - Partially descent SE then rap to notch between midget and West Tower, then traverse to Mountaineer's route and rap Mountaineer's route

West Tower, White pillar on on lookers left side of tower as looking from south perched glacier.

standard clean alpine rack