- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is an excellent climb that doesn't get a ton of traffic.
To find this route, hike east (right) from the [Back to the Future Wall] about 100 yards to a thin, fairly tall wall that faces the trail. Above and to the left is a ledge system that accesses 2 offwidth looking cracks and a thin face route ([The Devil Made Me Dog It] - 12c). On the tall thin wall that faces the trail there is a bolted line that goes up the left hand side of the face near the arete. This is '[The Lesser of Two Evils]'. This route would be the second route that you would find if you were hiking west from the alcove that has the 3 routes - '
[Dancing Shoes'
, '
Ethics, What Ethics
]?', and '
[Aerial Solution
]'. Route number 556 in [William Prehm's] photo.
[Lesser of Two Evils] is a great route that hugs the left side of an arete through 3 or 4 [separate] cruxes. The cruxes, for me, included reaches on good holds, using some not-so-good holds, a funky little bulge, and some steep pinching to get to the anchors.
This route would be a great way to spend your time while waiting for traffic to free up on the nearby classics.
Protection
4 or 5 bolts and anchors. Bolts are in good locations for clipping.
Routes in 08. Lesser Of Two Evils
- 9Lesser of Two Evils5.11bSport