- Edit (TBD)
Local School System
Description
This routes first pitch was established by Jeep and Doc. Next Doc and Whitney pushed the second pitch for a few bolts then Harrison and Jack came along and finished pitch 2 and added the third pitch. It was originally climbed at the grade 5.12 A0. Later on Andrew came through, fell at the first bolt, lowered back down, then onsighted the rest of the route rope solo calling it 5.11d.... unbelievably impressive but given the fact I know the guys character undoubtedly true. My partner and I (as did Harrison) still think it’s a solid 5.12. Respect for all the crushers who assembled this route in great style. Every pitch has a different flow making this a fun unique climb. There’s spots where a fall wouldn’t be fun but we both took falls on our leads of pitches 1&2. Pitch 1: Climb the right side of the giant flake. Carefully sneak out and clip the bolt then dive into the sustained open handed slimper fest to a two bolt anchor. This looks much easier from the ground. Very sustained lots of technical foot work and sussing out body position. 5.11+ Pitch 2: Leave the big cam at the belay. This pitch is characterized by several harder boulder problems but unlike pitch 1 you are rewarded with great stances after each problem. Complete the weird cruxes then navigate a few much easier but still tricky short run outs to a two bolt anchor 5.12 Pitch 3: Climb out left from the belay slinging a horn and continue to get underneath the large overhanging bulge. Get some gear at the bottom to protect clipping the bolt then crank the fun big moves on jugs through the overhang. Take your time on the easy terrain as not to fall here and clip the anchors on the perfect belay ledge. Rap the route with a 70m or double rope. 5.11-
Location
This route starts on the right side of the giant flake right of stone wall action.
Protection
This route only requires a very small rack. 00, .0/1 offset, .1/2 offset, 3“ camming unit, brown tricam, #10 nut, slings, draws.