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Peak Mountain 3

Anartichoke

FA Anderson, Wright, 1993
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a fun line with a bouldery, technical start, and a sustained, pumpy finish, split by moderate climbing and a big ledge.

Stick clip the first bolt, then make easy moves to gain the prow. Work up along the thin crack, to a rattly block in the pod. Make a big move to a slopey ledge and mantel. Cruise up tiered ledges to reach the looming arete. Technical reaches and balancey high-steps work up the high quality arete to the anchor. For full value, avoid stemming to either corner adjacent to the arete.

Location

Just right of

Silver Bullet

is a blunt prow with a mini-dihedral/flare/pod feature ~15 feet up. Anartichoke climbs the prow via bolts, then tacks the recessed arete above.

Protection

Ten draws for 7 bolts and a rope. A stick clip recommended for the first bolt. Alternatibely, a #0 TCU or equivalent nut slots perfectly in the thin crack that marks the start of the boulder problem.