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Peak Mountain 3

Pirate Radar

FA Bob Horan, Chule Lee, 1998
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a huge roof with a crack through it. It is very obvious when you first arrive at Midnight Rock. It is on the left side of the formation when looking approximately north (uphill). The crack looks like it would have good jamming the whole way. However, I pulled a 3 inch piece of rock out of it, and the jams weren't that solid! I think the way to climb it successfully would be using the flakes to the left of the crack. You start out climbing up for about 15-20 feet through 2 bolts, and then take a tricky travese to the left under the roof, for about 10 feet. Now climb the big roof. I thought it was harder that it looked, but, fun nevertheless.

Protection

This is a short route, with about 6 bolts, and a couple pitons. However, you will only need to use the bolts, and maybe a #2, or #3 cam for the crack below the lip of the roof. 2 bolt anchor.

Per

Mark Rolofson

: this route was originally done with 4 bolts & 3 pins.