We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Monkey Shoulder

FA Roy Suggett, Phyllis Suggett
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A mixed route and one of the longest routes in The Jungle. If the leader cleans the route, a 60 meter rope will just barely work; 70 meter rope is recommended. The crux is near the top of this fun forearm festival.

Start on the south side of the "monkey's shoulder" (face moves) then move through an easy chimney to a discontinuous crack that leads to a large block. Here is the first bolt prior to heading left back into the crack. This first clip is also the two bolt anchor for other climbs on the north side of the shoulder. After working your way through a loose crack and another bolt head up to a large bush where you then traverse left onto the glorious face and through 7 more bolts on ever-steepening, good rock.

You could also use the anchor on the block as the anchor for the first pitch, thus making this a two pitch route and eliminating the possible need for a longer rope.

Location

At the end of the Distant Drum area and just around the corner and north of the down chute. Half way through this chute you can see the upper face of this route.

Protection

One 5, one 4, one 3, one 2, one 1, one .3, and one Metolius 00 along with 5 shoulder length runners, one four foot runner, and 5 quick draws get you to chains.