- Edit (TBD)
Description
After stickclipping the first bolt, step off a small boulder and engage with small crimps and a few big moves to some good holds to clip the second bolt. Move slightly right to a good but dirty crimp and pull a sketchy mantle on dirty holds to get established on the face above and the third bolt. Make slightly terrifying moves up a small corner system with dirty chossy holds to get to the 4th bolt, and a good ledge. From here the climbing gets much more enjoyable and less dirty. Continue up the overhanging face on good holds (11-) and enjoyable sequences. At the anchors things begin to slab out with a few tricky moves to gain and clip the anchors.
Location
Far right side of Alcatraz. There is one red-tagged project past this. To the left is "Sweet Petunia" 10d.
Protection
13 Bolts to Anchors, Stickclip, FULL 60m rope.
Routes in Alcatraz
- 11Flight Risk5.12aSport