New York Gully

This is a fun route for the experienced alpinist. It has assorted elements including mixed, ice and some aid for those who can't climb hard mixed. We did it in 4 long pitches with some simuling with a 70 meter rope. So 5-6 without simuling with a 60 meter rope. The first pitch starts at the obvious gully down from the notch above the gully. Ascend about 200 feet up the gully and ascend the obvious ramp to the left. Belay from the quasi-cave. Ascend up and left for one pitch. Then ascend up and slightly right. The rest of the route follows the obvious weaknesses until you get to a small headwall. This is called a 5.8 crack. I was able to free it with only two moves of aid off fixed gear. The climbing above this is somewhat technical but a relief after the difficult aid moves.

This route is on the steep NW face.

Find the phantom slide (see below) and ascend more or less upwards and slightly left. Bear mostly up and somewhat left. Ideally, go with someone who knows the approach or follow a skin track as much of the approach is done through thick trees. As the grade decreases, bear left towards the notch. From the obvious notch, descend probably 200 vertical feet and traverse to the first obvious gully. Ascend roughly 200 vertical feet to the left traverse.

(Added Jan. 15, 2016:

About this "Phantom slide", here is some paraphrased info from

kurthicks.com/2012/02/18/sn…

Park at the lot that about 200′ past the main (i.e., with footbridge) parking lot. Hike up right on the south-facing hill, heading for the Alpental waterfalls. At the bottom of the waterfalls, go left for about 100′ (into woods) and then straight up through two steep snowed-up cliff bands (often with ski or bootpack). After gaining about 300′ of elevation, move back to the right to the edge of the "Phantom Slide path".)

rack to 2-3 inches. knifeblades, 1-4 ice screws depending on conditions. No bolts. Some fixed pitons on the right places. Slings.